Once they have good root-mass, however, they can pretty much fend for themselves. So when I remove the dome and the clones don't wilt then I can leave it off and if the clones wilt put it back on? Just little not much root some are longer and some are shorter. Some are on the side and some on the bottom. I'll just put the dome back on and leave the vents open. Hydrotech Well-Known Member. The dome should have been gone day 4. Every day you need to let them breathe more and more,start out at 15 mins and put the dome back on.
I wait until I see the cutting start to show a slight distress and replace the dome. By day 4 roots should be developing and the humidity should not be a factor. If the plant starts to sag replace the dome. At no time should you spray your cuttings. If you supply moisture and nutrients through foliar spray the plant has no need to develop roots.
OK I'll try that. It's been over 2 hours and none of the clones are wilting. Should I just keep the dome off from now on can I switch the lights from 24 to 18? I still have the heat mat on and it's over 80 degrees is it too hot and will the rockwool dry faster since the dome is off?
Hydrotech you said don't spray the plants, How are the plants going to get water if I don't mist the plants? Leave it off now and 80 is not too hot on the mat. You want the rw to dry quicker, if it stays wet for more than days the clone will yellow, sag and probably fail.
I was thinking just spray the bottom of the cube. The clones are not wilting and I change the light 24 to 20 might just drop it to 18 if it roots faster this is day Day 18, have you been spraying the cuttings? The longest I have ever waited was 10 days. Always have good roots by day 7.
I hope they are alive Gels, powders and other hormone variants are usually available for purchase at local gardening or hydroponic retailers. If you decide to take this route, it will only require giving the clone a quick dip before it rests in its final rooting medium. We believe non-soil rooting methods are the best choice for a rooting medium. For example, rockwool cubes provide favorable conditions for a clone to develop in for their airflow properties and ability to retain moisture.
Rockwool cubes or similar products can be found online or at gardening stores. If you decide to root in soil , make sure the soil you use does not have an abundance of nutrients. It's also important not to over or under water the soil before transplanting your clone into it. Rooting in water is the simplest form of a rooting medium. It does not require the use of rooting hormones or any sophisticated practice.
Simply leave your clipping in water until they begin to develop roots. Auto-cloners take much of the guessing work out for you but can be large and expensive depending on your needs. Each method has its benefits and downfalls. It's best to experiment take notes and decide which method works for your preferences. In any case, allow your clones at least 18hrs of light and humidity. Transplanting the clone Once you see vegetation begin to grow on your clones you will know it is time to transplant.
All that is required is to move the clone into a larger growing space. It's important to take care and to be sanitary anytime you are working with transplanting crops. Transplant shock occurs when a plant has been agitated. It's usually due to unsanitary transplanting methods. It is a common occurrence so allow yourself the time and resource to create a safe transplanting environment.
Cloning your plants isn't an overly difficult process and doesn't require a lot of technical skill. There are many reasons why one might opt into cloning plants. It's efficient, easy and it saves time and money. Cloning is a great way to develop a self-sufficient garden and it allows you to recreate a good harvest over and over again.
We hope you found this article on how to clone a plant helpful and informative. Be sure to practice good cloning practice and hone your skill over time. Clones can be taken off any healthy vegetative plant - however, if it's a very young want to be cautious as to not over stress the plant.
Make sure it has not had any traumatic experiences recently, such as being transplanted or dehydrated. When you take cuttings from a mother plant, it will need a few days to recover, proportionate to the amount which was removed. During this time you will want to avoid taking further cuttings. The term monster cropping refers to the act of taking marijuana clones from a mother plant which has entered the flowering cycle. Typically, marijuana clones are taken from a vegetative mother plant.
However, you can also take clones from a plant which has already entered the flowering stage - though this is best done during the first few weeks. When these monster cropped clones are placed under at least 18 hours of light, they will revert back into a vegetative state. Clones taken from a flowering plant will often root at a slower rate than clones taken from a vegatative mother plant, and this is due to the flower-related hormones within the plant.
Since these clones will root slower, it is important that you prepare to maintain their health for an additional few days compared to usual clones.
It is these flowering hormones which are the desired result from performing the monster cropping technique: though these "mixed signals" can initially lead to various mutations within your clone. Once the growth of your monster cropped clone has settled down, you will notice it grows much bushier and more vigourously than a normal clone.
While you can treat monster cropped clones like any other slow rooting clone, they should be observed much more carefully. This is because of the stress placed on them during the transition back into the vegatative state during the rooting process. When a plant receives too much stress, it can become a hermaphrodite simultaneously male and female , which will lead to the production of seeds within your garden - even if your garden only consists of a single plant.
The ideal size of a marijuana clone is between 3 to 5 inches. This is comfortable enough to fit inside most greenhouse domes, as well as allowing it be firmly seated inside the rooting medium.
The real answer will depend on your environment, and tools you will be using to help promote root growth - cuttings of almost any size can be made into clones. The following items are helpful to have on hand when you are preparing to take some marijuana clones:.
There are a number of options available to use as a rooting medium for your marijuana clones - such as soil, peat pellets, and rock wool cubes.
There are also proprietary variations of these mediums, such as the Rapid Rooter starter plugs. Each of these rooting mediums has different properties - you should choose one which best suits your needs. We'll describe them for you below:. Using soil as a rooting medium for your clone will be the easiest solution, but the simplicity does come with some disadvantages. It will be much harder to keep the moisture levels surrounding the cutting, at an ideal level without over watering.
One potential advantage of using soil is the insulation it can provide for growers in cooler areas. By using a larger amount of soil and a container, you will protect the roots from lower ambient temperatures which will reduce the speed of growth.
When using soil as your rooting medium, it should be watered sparingly just prior to inserting your clone. A cheap rooting medium, peat pellets will provide your cutting with everything it needs to begin growing it's first set of roots. The peat pellets will stay moist, and provide an ability to remove excess water. Another cheap rooting medium, Rock Wool cubes are essentially blocks of insulation fiberglass for your cutting to be seated into. While rock wool cubes do not suffer from the same temperature concerns as peat pellets, they have even bigger concerns - which is mold.
Due to the necessity of keeping the rooting medium moist and accompanied humidity dome, the rock wool cubes become an ideal environment for mold to begin growing on. Finally, if you are using rock wool for your clones it will be important to soak them in water which has been properly brought to a PH level of 5.
The use of a humidity dome will greatly increase the change of your plants surviving until they have the chance to grow roots. A new marijuana clone will not have established roots, and will be reliant on humidity levels in order to maintain water intake. These humidity levels are much too low for marijuana clones to maintain their water, which will cause the leaves to begin to wilt.
Clones which remain in low humidity environments will continue wilting, and eventually die to lack of water. Through maintaining proper humidity levels, you will be able to keep the clones alive and healthy while they begin the process of forming their first roots. While a humidity dome itself may not be required, it is critical that you are able to keep moisture in the air.
If you do choose to use a humidity dome for your marijuana clones, it is a good idea to remove the dome periodically in order to allow fresh air to enter. If you skip this step, you will be encouraging the growth of mold, and may lead to suffocation of your plants. Keep reading further along in our cloning FAQ, to learn how to avoid perspiration within your clones - increasing their chances of survival, but also allowing them to stay alive with reduced humidity levels.
We also talk about what happens if your humidity is too high, and tricks on how you can use your humidity dome to help your clones root faster. Using a number of ingredients, rooting gels and powders are used to help promote the hormones responsible for the growth of roots.
There are a number of different brands, and variations of application. In our experience, the best product varies from strain to strain - we have tried to perform many experiments, without any conclusive results.
Fortunately most of the rooting hormone products for cannabis are not that expensive. While their effectiveness could be argued, you may as well apply one to your clones for the sake of a few dollars - some users will even use multiple products on a single clone, to take advantage of both power and gel applications.
When you have assembled your supplies, take your sterile scissors and cut the chosen branch from the marijuana plant. When you have separated the cutting from the mother plant, you will want to sterilize your scissors - and prepare to make a second cut to the clone. This time, you should cut at a 45 degree angle.
If the clone is already within the ideal size of 3 to 5 inches, you will not need to remove much more of the stem with your second cut. Once your rooting hormones have been applied, promptly insert the clone into your rooting medium and ensure that it is firmly seated. If you are using a rooting hormone, apply it to your clone into it immediately after making the second cut.
Be sure to follow the the instructions from the manufacturer - although application typically consists of simply covering a quarter inch of the stem with their product.
You can now place the newly planted clone under a light. If you find that the rooting medium is losing moisture, you can apply a small amount of room temperature water to the rooting medium.
If the humidity levels are dropping, you can spray the humidity dome or surrounding area with a spray bottle. There are concerns that by making a cut into the plant, there are possibilities of oxygen entering the vascular system of the plant which can lead to the prevent of moisture intake.
In order to alleviate this concern, you can submerge your clone under water when making your second cut - which will create a brief seal against oxygen, as you complete the rest of the cloning process. If your time allows or the circumstance requires it, cutting your clones at the 45 degree angle while they are submerged underwater will not hurt the clone, and could improve the survival rates of your clones.
In our experience, our rate of surates have been high enough not to warrant this extra step. The purpose of removing leaves from your clone is to help avoid perspiration which will lead to your plant becoming dehydrated. Since your clone will not have roots for several days, it is important that they are able to maintain healthy water levels.
Leaves are one of the biggest ways in which water escapes the plant. By removing all unnecessary branches and leaves, we will help to ensure the clones survival and prevent the stress of dehydration. The removal of leaves consists of all leaves and branches up to the top of the clone.
A select few leaves must be left alone, to allow the process of photosynthesis to occur. Initially it will only be necessary to keep the rooting medium moist. After the first few days you will want to begin administering small amounts of water around the rooting area.
It is ideal to place water further away from the roots, driving them to reach for it - but be sure that the primary rooting area still remains wet. Depending on your environments humidity level and temperature, you may need to monitor your clones more closely for signs that they need water. When you are watering your marijuana clones, you should be using water which has been brought to a PH level of around 5. Im dealing with the same ish mine were taking out at week 1.
And they need care.. I mean they are growing roots but still not ready yet. Using either the 1. If I do not wait for the rooting as described, they take much longer to get going and yield is reduced. Can you just flower clones after they've rooted a bit will it hurt the yield loads I know they'd be smaller how small would b good to know.
Masterdank Member. Masterdank said:. He hasn't been online since Welcome to RIU. You must log in or register to reply here.
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